Common Hatching Problems & What They Mean
Even with good equipment and the best intentions, not every egg will hatch. When chicks fail to hatch or struggle, it’s easy to blame the incubator — but most issues trace back to the conditions the embryo experienced along the way.
Before you even set eggs: successful hatching starts with healthy breeder birds on a balanced diet. Well-fed hens and roosters produce stronger embryos with better hatchability and vigour. Pair that with careful egg handling and you’re already ahead.
Pre-Incubation Checklist (Do These Every Time)
- Store eggs correctly: room temperature (ideally under 20 °C), never in the fridge; point-down; turn daily until set.
- Set only clean, sound eggs from healthy, well-fed breeders (no cracks, odd shapes, or thin shells).
- Pre-run your incubator for 4+ hours to confirm stable temperature and turning before adding eggs.
1) Early Death (Days 1–7)
Common causes: temperature spikes, poor egg storage, low fertility, or bacterial contamination.
What to look for: clear eggs, a small dark speck, or a distinctive blood ring on candling.
How to fix it next time: store eggs correctly (room temp, under 20 °C, turned daily), disinfect between hatches, and verify stable temperature the first 72 hours.
2) Mid-Term Death (Days 8–14)
Common causes: slightly low temperature, turning failure, or humidity too high (air cell not growing).
What to look for: well-developed embryo with little movement and a small air cell at candling.
How to fix it: confirm the turner runs the whole cycle; don’t over-fill the incubator; aim for steady mid-stage humidity that lets the air cell grow appropriately (track air cell size or weight loss).
3) Late Death (Days 15–18)
Common causes: humidity off (too low → chicks dry/shrink-wrap; too high → poor positioning), or temperature inconsistency.
What to look for: full-term chicks that never pip, or appear dried to the membrane (“shrink-wrapped”).
How to fix it: manage to air-cell targets rather than a single humidity number; keep temperature rock-steady; avoid frequent lid-opening at this stage.
4) Pipped but Not Hatched
Common causes: membranes too dry from low humidity or frequent opening, weak chicks (temp/turning issues), or ventilation limits.
What to look for: a shell pip with no progress or a chick stuck under the membrane.
How to fix it: once pipping begins, protect membrane moisture by minimising openings. Assist only when clearly indicated and with proper technique.
5) Sticky Chicks
Common cause: humidity too high for too long → insufficient moisture loss → thick residue and sticking.
Fix: run a little drier through the middle weeks so the air cell reaches the right size, then protect membrane moisture at hatch.
6) Unabsorbed Yolk or Weak Legs
Common causes: temperature a touch low or inconsistent; inadequate turning; or poor breeder nutrition (vitamins/minerals).
Fix: verify temperature with a reliable, calibrated sensor; ensure your breeders have a balanced ration (including adequate vitamins A/D/E and minerals like calcium).
7) Malpositioned Chicks
Common causes: eggs stored point-up, not turned correctly, or humidity too high preventing correct positioning.
Fix: store point-down; allow eggs to settle before setting; confirm your automatic turner works throughout the cycle.
8) Early or Late Hatch Timing
Early hatch (before Day 21): temperature running warm.
Late hatch (after Day 22): temperature running cool.
Use hatch timing as feedback to fine-tune your incubator for the next set.
About Humidity in the Final Days (“Lockdown”)
The safest guidance is: don’t automatically raise humidity. Aim for correct air-cell size / weight loss by lockdown, then maintain membrane pliability during pipping by avoiding unnecessary lid openings and ensuring adequate ventilation. If embryos are trending dry in your conditions, a modest bump can help — let the air cell and local climate be your guide.
What Good Hatches Look Like
Most chicks emerge within ~24 hours, dry fluffy and active soon after, with only a few clears or early quitters. Even commercial hatcheries don’t hit 100% every time — aim for steady improvement each cycle.
Need Help Interpreting Your Results?
We’re happy to look over your notes and photos to pinpoint what went wrong. Email info@uneekpoultry.com.au — we’re here to help.
Uneek Poultry — Helping you hatch better, every time.